medieval-religion: Scholarly discussions of medieval religion and culture
A couple of things I forgot to mention, with respect to Chartres. When you arrive,
the axial clerestory windows may still be missing. They were taken out some time
ago now for restoration, part of an extensive programme of cleaning that began in
the mid-1980s. The window openings were filled initially by clear glass, which really
spoiled the lighting effects of the interior, but this was so unacceptable, that they
filled them with plywood later on. All the low windows in the cathedral have now
been cleaned and look stunning. Those who visited the cathedral prior to this might
remember that it was often impossible to make out images beneath the grime. Of
the upper windows, the only ones that have been cleaned are the three west
windows and west rose, plus the two westernmost clerestory windows in the nave,
and the rose and lancets at the end of the north transept. A pair of binoculars might
come in handy to see details.
You may also find that the south portals are encased in scaffolding. There is a
major restoration planned, and two of the jamb figures, on the left-hand doorway,
have been supported by scaffolding for some time now, obviously in a precarious
condition. The north transept portal was restored several years ago now and in its
cleaned condition, looks stunning, exquisite, magnificent, etc., etc.
My least favourite recent change within the cathedral was to move the high altar
into the crossing. This was done, I believe, in the 1990s. This means that the choir
and sanctuary are now more open to the public, but to me, this space, once the
heart of the cathedral, now looks rather disappointingly empty. About the only spot
in the cathedral where one can sense something of the intense Marian devotion that
was once so important at Chartres is in the north choir aisle, at the shrine of Notre-
Dame du Pilier, a 16th-century statue of the Virgin and Child that was originally
located against the now destroyed jube. It is also the only cult statue to have
survived the French Revolution, although there is a copy of the more famous (in
medieval terms) Notre-Dame de Sous-Terre, set up in the crypt.
Cheers,
Jim Bugslag
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