I neither bought it nor ever owned my own surfable board, Max. I just liked the company for a while. Even now, some thirty years after I last butted out, I still also prefer the company of smokers too. They have time.
Like to think you play some pretty awesome air mandolin nowadays.
On 31/08/2012, at 5:22 PM, Max Richards wrote:
> I like the board good only for yr car top!
> But you didn't buy it, did you, having a real surfable one.
>
> I once bought a mandolin at an auction of house contents, very impulsive of me, but it was gorgeous.
> Took it to a luthier who said - good ornament, but the interior totally wrecked by woodworm, won't play a note.
>
> On 31/08/2012, at 5:09 PM, Bill Wootton wrote:
>
>> Re oceanic appetite, Max, I recall surfers longed for tucker as well as their watery rides. Pizzas and fastfood aplenty got wolfed. I had the hair for it in my teens and enjoyed the company. But I lacked the skills. Remember an ad in a surf rag, the name of which I have forgotten: Surfboard. $5 . Look good on car. Bells Beach was truly scary.
>>
>>
>> On 29/08/2012, at 3:21 PM, Max Richards wrote:
>>
>>> Surf, Ocean
>>>
>>>
>>> That much-touted oceanic feeling -
>>> how available, you said, how rare
>>> the well-and-truly-met 'I and thou'.
>>>
>>> The surf that day at Torquay, Vic.,
>>> rolled mightily in and in
>>> all the time we lingered;
>>>
>>> the wide bay opened
>>> to a wider horizon
>>> facing all of Bass Strait;
>>>
>>> displaying three weathers -
>>> two dark storms on the move,
>>> one bright interval of sun.
>>>
>>> Our earth and turf lookout
>>> encompassed many surfers, tiny
>>> against magniloquent rollers;
>>>
>>> pitting their black-suited glistening
>>> physiques crouching, standing
>>> against surging whitening greens;
>>>
>>> triumphing for high prolonged
>>> moments until engulfment;
>>> boards surfacing again
>>>
>>> not far from the swimmers,
>>> soon up again, paddling back out
>>> for more - oceanic appetite.
>>>
>>> Strenuous pastime! The thrills
>>> surely addictive, single selves
>>> in the multitudinousness,
>>>
>>> yet to these old eyes
>>> remote, otherworldly.
>>> The grand menacing breakers
>>>
>>> resonate thunderously.
>>> Other days, windless, is there no
>>> big surf? No throng of seekers?
>>>
>>> Away from the beach, or there
>>> and facing each other, whose meetings
>>> prompt the feeling 'well met!'?
>>>
>>>
>
>
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