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I neither bought it nor ever owned my own surfable board, Max. I just liked the company for a while. Even now, some thirty years after I last butted out, I still also prefer the company of smokers too. They have time. 

Like to think you play some pretty awesome air mandolin nowadays. 


On 31/08/2012, at 5:22 PM, Max Richards wrote:

> I like the board good only for yr car top!
> But you didn't buy it, did you, having a real surfable one.
> 
> I once bought a mandolin at an auction of house contents, very impulsive of me, but it was gorgeous.
> Took it to a luthier who said - good ornament, but the interior totally wrecked by woodworm, won't play a note.
> 
> On 31/08/2012, at 5:09 PM, Bill Wootton wrote:
> 
>> Re oceanic appetite, Max, I recall surfers longed for tucker as well as their watery rides. Pizzas and fastfood aplenty got wolfed. I had the hair for it in my teens and enjoyed the company. But I lacked the skills. Remember an ad in a surf rag, the name of which I have forgotten:  Surfboard. $5 . Look good on car. Bells Beach was truly scary. 
>> 
>> 
>> On 29/08/2012, at 3:21 PM, Max Richards wrote:
>> 
>>> Surf, Ocean
>>> 
>>> 
>>> That much-touted oceanic feeling -
>>> how available, you said, how rare 
>>> the well-and-truly-met 'I and thou'. 
>>> 
>>> The surf that day at Torquay, Vic.,
>>> rolled mightily in and in
>>> all the time we lingered;
>>> 
>>> the wide bay opened
>>> to a wider horizon
>>> facing all of Bass Strait;
>>> 
>>> displaying three weathers -
>>> two dark storms on the move,
>>> one bright interval of sun.
>>> 
>>> Our earth and turf lookout
>>> encompassed many surfers, tiny
>>> against magniloquent rollers;
>>> 
>>> pitting their black-suited glistening
>>> physiques crouching, standing
>>> against surging whitening greens;
>>> 
>>> triumphing for high prolonged
>>> moments until engulfment;
>>> boards surfacing again
>>> 
>>> not far from the swimmers,
>>> soon up again, paddling back out 
>>> for more - oceanic appetite.
>>> 
>>> Strenuous pastime! The thrills 
>>> surely addictive, single selves
>>> in the multitudinousness,
>>> 
>>> yet to these old eyes
>>> remote, otherworldly.
>>> The grand menacing breakers
>>> 
>>> resonate thunderously.
>>> Other days, windless, is there no 
>>> big surf? No throng of seekers?
>>> 
>>> Away from the beach, or there
>>> and facing each other, whose meetings
>>> prompt the feeling 'well met!'?
>>> 
>>> 
> 
>