medieval-religion: Scholarly discussions of medieval religion and culture

On Wed, 8 Jan 2003 20:58:22 -0500
 Wendy Reardon <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

>The following Medals have cloth that has been brought to the shrine (or the
>site of the vision of the saint):...
>St. Michael's cloth relic was touched to what is believed to be his
>footprint in a cave in Italy.

This would be the grotto at Monte Sant' Angelo on the Gargano peninsula.  The "official" website is (English version) at: http://www.gargano.it/sanmichele/english/home-en.htm

Clicking on "Virtual Visit" brings up a cutaway view of the complex with clickable numbers for points of interest.

Clicking on "History and Origins" brings you to a menu of choices.  Do not miss "The Devotional Museum" (people have been leaving things here for a very long time).

The 19th-century historian of medieval Rome, Ferdinand Gregorovius, has left an account of his visit that is well worth reading: http://www.christinejeannettegater.com/virgo-stanza-of-le-serpent-rouge/archangel-michael-on-mount-garganus.lwp/archangel-michael-on-mount-garganus.htm
(caution: there +may+ be wrapping problems here)

The German original may be read at: http://www.gutenberg2000.de/gregorov/wanderit/wand241.htm

A couple of extracts (English version) follow:

     We were impatient to enter it after we had warmed ourselves up in a cave-like dirty pub. The way to the chapel took us over a small square with the marble statue of the Archangel atop a pillar, pretending to be a work of Michelangelo's piety. Sideways a tall black tower of two floors is standing, a fine building by Giordano da Monte Sant'Angelo, the architect of Charles d'Anjou. The square was teeming with people; pilgrims were going to the shrine where in the grotto a mass was about to begin. Wind was howling over us and about us: the iron flag atop the tower, a mobile St. Michael, was rattling in a gruesome sound. Virtually accompanied by the roar of the elementary spirits, we were descending in the mysterious realm of shadows.

     The grotto is lying deep inside a rock whose walls are covered by holy buildings, while on its peak a very old oak bush is standing on the branches of which pilgrims are heaping up stones.

     A Gothic porch, resting on two pillars each, makes up the higher entrance to the shrines deeper. At the middle of its pointed arch the Virgin with the child is sitting between S. Peter and Paul, a noble group of marbles. Instead of inviting him, the inscription of the portal seems to frighten back the pilgrim, exactly like this were Isis' inner sanctum. «Terribilis Est Locus Iste. Hic Domus Dei Est Et Porta Celi.» This porch takes us to 25 broad stone steps at the end of which another Gothic gate is standing. After we had passed the upper one, that large staircase was lying in front of us, a stepladder hewn in living stone, vaulted by Gothic arches and weakly illumined by daylight that could even penetrate the holes in the rock.

     First we entered several chambers sideways, the small shops teeming with buyers where fetishes, medals, rosaries, pine branches, heaps of scallop shells, the gaudiest images of the Archangel and namely small statues of him were offered for sale. On the tables and boards along the walls these figures were standing in many hundreds, of many sizes. They were made of the soft marble of Garganus and collapsible. The wings, the head, the crown, shield and sword and the yellow wooden socket can be removed and put in a small box. This way I managed to bring back my St. Michael and now he is happily standing in front of me.

...

    The mass had ended and the grotto was emptying. We were watching this at leasure now. Near the altar a water bassin is standing from which the pilgrims are drawing the water of the holy source. Nearby an ancient statue of the Archangel is set up. Here as well a footprint of his is shown in a stone, his only relic. But are the angels so heavy footed and so heavy walking as to be able to leave such footprints?


Best,
John Dillon 

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