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Hi Sam, With Phase One backs (and should be the same for the Nikon) we use: For UVF: light source is LED 365nm (+/-10nm) and a UG11 filter on it, and in front of the camera a Baader Venus Filter together with a BG38 (to cut IR – resulted from warming up of the LED light...) For UVR: same light source with a UG1 Filter - like the Kodak 18A (which can be quite difficult to find these days) The camera (or back) need to have their IR-UV block filters removed of course If you know the output wavelength range of the tubes it can help you choose the correct filter. Hope this helps BR Yair Yair Shahar | Product Manager | Phase One [log in to unmask] | +44 77 8992 8199 From: AHFAP UK cultural heritage sector <[log in to unmask]> on behalf of Sam Drake <[log in to unmask]> Reply-To: AHFAP UK cultural heritage sector <[log in to unmask]> Date: Tuesday, 6 November 2018 at 15:36 To: AHFAP UK cultural heritage sector <[log in to unmask]> Subject: Basic UV Photography Hi All, I’ve recently been asked to do some UV photography of a collection of works on paper- I’m hoping someone might be able to give me some advice on very basic UV photography. Up until now our conservation department have been doing their own UV photography with some UV tubes and a point and shoot camera with no added filtration in a far from ideal studio environment. The results have been ok for them as working resource but I’m quite keen to improve the quality of the images :) I’d be using the same UV tubes but in a more controlled environment. In the past for a previous job (if I remember rightly) I used a 2e filter on the front of the camera and some UV tubes. Does this seem like a reasonable way to proceed? Should I be using a 18A or equivalent filter as well? One website I’ve been looking at recommends a 2e and a PECA 918 filter- would this be better? http://www.uvinnovations.com/getting-started Would it be best to use a Phaseone with a CCD IQ180 back or (because of the low light and long exposures) a Nikon D810? Previously the conservation department I worked with wanted the colour temperature set on tungsten because they found it easier to see how the different surfaces were fluorescing- is this common practise? Does anyone have any experience of using a target similar to this and is it worth the expense? http://www.imagescienceassociates.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ISA001&Product_Code=TUVUVGC&Category_Code=TARGETS Many thanks, Sam Sam Drake Photographer National Galleries of Scotland ######################################################################## To unsubscribe from the AHFAP list, click the following link: https://www.jiscmail.ac.uk/cgi-bin/webadmin?SUBED1=AHFAP&A=1 ######################################################################## To unsubscribe from the AHFAP list, click the following link: https://www.jiscmail.ac.uk/cgi-bin/webadmin?SUBED1=AHFAP&A=1