SECAC, Birmingham, AL, US


17-20 October 2018


Call for papers: Artists Advancing the Cause: Artists as Art Dealers


Session Chair: Leanne Zalewski, Central Connecticut State University


Deadline: 20 April 2018


Artists have been acting as art agents for centuries. For example, late
eighteenth- and early nineteenth-century American artist John Trumbull
maintained his painting career while scouting out work abroad for Thomas
Jefferson. Printmaker Samuel P. Avery transitioned from his printmaking
career to becoming a full-time art dealer in the late nineteenth century.
Art historian Laura Corey has recently examined how Mary Cassatt served as
unofficial (and unpaid) art agent to advance the careers of her
Impressionist artist friends. In the early twentieth century, photographer
Alfred Stieglitz introduced avant-garde art in New York. This session wishes
to explore artists acting as dealers in official or unofficial capacities,
part-time or full-time. How did patrons or artists initiate the
relationship? Who stood to gain more, artistically or financially? What were
the terms of the deal? What commissions did the artist agents receive? What
did the artist offer clients that an art dealer who had never worked as a
professional artist could not offer? How did artist-agents advance the cause
of contemporary art, their own art, or the art of their friends? Topics on
artists acting as agents from any time period or culture are encouraged.

For further information please see the SECAC application process or write

Dr. Leanne Zalewski

Associate Professor of Art History

Central Connecticut State University

1615 Stanley Street, Maloney 139

New Britain, CT 06050-4010

Ph: 860.832.2636 | Fax: 860.832.2634 | [log in to unmask]
<mailto:[log in to unmask]> 




Fashioning the Early Modern Courtier (Cambridge, 16 May 18)


St John's College Cambridge, May 16, 2018


This one-day conference will explore the ways in which clothing contributed
to the gendered (self)fashioning of the courtier in early modern Europe (ca.
1550 – 1750), examining both its symbolic significance and its action on and
interaction with the body.


Recent historical research has emphasised how early modern courts were
crucial sites for the elaboration and diffusion of specific corporeal models
aspiring to shape the ideal man and woman. Fashion, then as now, provides a
very material setting that has the power to promote specific patterns of
thought and action.


Our speakers will explore how male and female courtiers skilfully
constructed their identity and negotiated their social status through
sartorial trends and beautification techniques. Rooted within a broader
culture of corporeal interpretation, fashion represented an effective way of
asserting political allegiance and even expressing criticism ad hominem.
Sovereigns could assert their power by clothing the royal entourage and
enforcing vestiary policies. Courtiers in turn could play a role in shaping
the image and body of the monarch through gift-giving.


Embracing a corporealist perspective, we endeavour to integrate a semiotic
reading of dress with accounts of its fundamentally embodied nature, both in
its creation and in its wearing. Symbolic sartorial practices engaged
directly with the material body, re-shaping and de-forming the silhouette.
Clothes and accessories could provide support and protection, whilst
sometimes constituting a hindrance to even the simplest of movements.


We will also investigate the diffusion of new fashions, materials, and
techniques. Circulation patterns within the court will be analysed alongside
interactions with the city and mutual influences between international
centres of power. We will reconstruct the complex network of tailors,
craftsmen and merchants which orbited around the court, moving across all
social classes and providing a key point of connection between aristocratic
courtiers and urban bourgeoisie. We will also consider alternative
dissemination mediums such as portraits, early examples of single-leaf
broadsheets and bound books displaying fashion plates.


Gathering an international group of speakers including fashion curators,
makers, and academics from a variety of fields, the aim of our conference is
to challenge traditional top-down models of fashion circulation as well as
provide a more nuanced and complete narrative bringing into play all the
different actors involved. We also seek to demonstrate how a study of the
clothed body provides a privileged gateway into the world of court politics
and a unique opportunity to access the courtiers’ embodied experiences.




9:15 Registration


9:45 Welcome address


10:00 - PANEL 1

*	Mark De Vitis (University of Sydney) / The Fashioned Body as
Materialised Critique at the Court of Louis XIV 
*	Jemma Field (Brunel University London) / Between Scotland and
England: The Journey of Elite Female Fashion in 1603 
*	Catherine Stearn (Eastern Kentucky University) / She-Wolves in
Queen’s Clothing: Exploring the Relationship between Dress, Female Courtiers
and Monarchical Authority at the Court of Elizabeth I


11:15 Coffe & tea


11:30 - PANEL 2 A

*	Natasha Awais-Dean (King’s College London) / Three Houres a
Buttoning: Embellishing Male Dress in Early Modern England 
*	Sarah Crowe (Goethe University & Staedel School, Frankfurt) / The
semiology of the ruff in the early Dutch golden age to 1648 
*	Jane Partner (University of Cambridge) / Reading the Early Modern
Body: The Case Study of Textual Jewellery



*	Lacy Gillette (Florida State University) / Cataloguing the Character
of Couture: An Examination of Jost Amman's Sixteenth Century Printed
*	Abigail Gomulkiewicz (University of Cambridge) / From Subject to
Monarch: Male gift-giving at the court of Elizabeth I 
*	Juliet Claxton (King’s College London) / ‘His wife was the rich
china-woman that the courtiers visited so often’: the role of the merchant
at the Stuart Court


12:45 Lunch


13:30 KEYNOTE / Evelyn Welch (King’s College London)


14:45 - PANEL 3 A

*	Rebecca Morrison (QMUL and the V&A) / The Diplomacy of the Dress
Fitting: exploring relationships between the mantua-maker and client in the
construction of eighteenth-century court dress 
*	Astrid Castres (École nationale des chartes, Paris) / Producing
garments for the Court: Innovations and technical transfers in Parisian
fashion workshops during the 16th Century 
*	Moïra Dato (European University Institute, Florence) / The Lyonnais
Silks as Objects of Conspicuous Consumption in 18th-Century French Court



*	Beth Walsh (University of East Anglia) / The late Stuarts and their
political cravats 
*	Isabella Rosner (University of Cambridge) / ‘Grave Hogen Mogen, High
and Mighty Frogs!’: The Mysteries of Seventeenth-Century Frog Pouch Fashion 
*	Kimberley Foy (Durham University) / Points of Connection: Lace,
Internationalism, and Political Authority in England, 1565–1625


16:00 Coffee & tea


16:15 - PANEL 4

*	Marc W. S. Jaffré (University of St Andrews) / Adorned with stones
of inestimable size and value': Tailors, Taste and Fashion at the Court of
Louis XIII, 1610–1643 
*	Lindsay Dupertuis (University of Maryland) / Dressed for Battle:
Military Costume and Aristocratic Fashion in Sixteenth-Century Italy


17:15 KEYNOTE / Maria Hayward (University of Southampton)


18:00 Closing remarks


18:15 Wine reception


To attend please register here: