Hi all

As promised, some tips on box making and solution finding from Annette Townsend. Apologies to those of you that have no need of this information.

In natural history conservation at AC - NMW we either use acid free archival cardboard boxes or make our own correx boxes for the storage of specimens. Flat packed archival boxes are quick and easy to use for medium sized specimens or smaller items which can be grouped together. They have the advantage of being uniform in size so they can be stacked easily on shelving. For larger specimens I tend to build my own boxes from correx with varying designs depending on how the specimen needs to be accessed.  If the specimen is heavy or fragile it may need to slide out of the box rather than being lifted so I create integral lids or sides that drop down. The boxes can also be strengthened by inserting an extra correx layer into the base with the corrugated ridges running in different directions to prevent sagging.

I use 4 mm white or clear fluted correx board which can be cut with a sharp Stanley knife. Always use a metal ruler because the Stanley blade will happily slice through a plastic one!  You can score through one side of the correx without cutting right the way through to create folds.  Measure the specimens carefully and add a couple of extra centimetres to the height, width and length to allow room for hands to lift the specimens out.  I work out my calculations and patterns on a piece of paper then use a biro to mark out the measurements on the corex before I start cutting. Large sheets of correx can be difficult to cut down to size by hand. A good tip is to mark out the longest edges so that they run along the ridges in the corex. It's much easier to cut corex lengthways rather than across the corrugated ridges, so use this to your advantage! Another top tip when scoring and folding the sides and ends of your box up is to make an allowance in your measurements for the extra 4 mm thickness of the correx that you'll need to fold around. If you've ever tried to make a correx box and found the sides start bowing out you'll know what I mean there! Lids should be snug so that the dust can't get in but not so tight that they are difficult to remove. Making the lids a couple of mm larger than the box is the answer but getting it perfect might take some practice. I use Sellotape to hold my correx in a 3D position while i'm working, then attach everything securely in place with brass or tinned steel split pins. You won't be able to push a split pin through several layers of correx so slice a guide hole with a sharp scalpel first. Always cover the inside of the split pins with self adhesive linen tape to prevent them opening up and catching on your specimens.

In either type of box plastazote can be used to create internal divisions, layers and supports. I use 3 mm plastazote to line the base of the box, then cut wide strips of 15 mm plastazote and fit them sideways around the walls. If you cut them the right length they should wedge snuggly together and stand upright, you can then balance another sheet of 15 mm plastazote on top creating an extra layer in your box. You can add multiple layers depending on the height and weight of your specimens. For extra strength, plastazote walls can be pinned together with dress making pins and secured with self adhesive linen tape.

I would always recommend packing and storing specimens in this way. If your finances won't stretch to an archival quality box, then a normal cardboard box lined with plastazote will still be much more effective than any plastic wrapping. It may seem like a lot of time and effort to custom make boxes and inserts but you will prevent hours of remedial conservation in the future.

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From: Annette Townsend
Sent: 06 September 2013 16:21
To: Vicky Purewal
Subject: Box images

How about these examples?









YMWADIAD


Mae pob neges ebost a anfonir i neu gan Amgueddfa Cymru yn cael ei 


sganio gan systemau diogelwch awtomatig er mwyn rheoli negeseuon 


digymell a dileu cynnwys amhriodol neu beryglus. Cafodd y neges hon ei 


sganio am firysau cyn ei hanfon, ond dylech hefyd fodloni'ch hun bod y 


neges, a phob atodiad ynddi, yn rhydd o firysau cyn ei defnyddio gan 


nad yw'r Amgueddfa'n derbyn cyfrifoldeb am unrhyw golled neu ddifrod o 


ganlyniad i agor y neges neu unrhyw atodiadau. Gall y neges hon ac 


unrhyw ffeiliau a atodir ynddi gynnwys gwybodaeth gyfrinachol a 


fwriadwyd ar gyfer y derbynnydd yn unig. Os ydych chi wedi derbyn y 


neges trwy gamgymeriad, rhowch wybod i ni a chofiwch ddileu'r neges.


Safbwyntiau personol yr awdur yw'r safbwyntiau a fynegir yn y neges 


hon, ac nid ydynt o reidrwydd yn cynrychioli safbwyntiau'r Amgueddfa. 


Nid yw'r Amgueddfa'n atebol am unrhyw wallau, llygredd neu esgeulustod 


a allai godi wrth drosglwyddo'r neges hon, felly na ddibynnwch ar y 


cynnwys heb geisio cadarnhad ysgrifenedig yn gyntaf.





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