I would also recommend putting a couple of targets of known geometry in each image to help rectify the images or in compositing multiple images. You may also want to attach two weights on equal lengths of string on the monopod or pole to help keep the camera axis vertical and a uniform height above the ground. You can Photoshop those out later if needed.

--
Dr. Andy R. Bobyarchick  |  Geologist
Associate Professor of Earth Sciences
M.S. Earth Sciences Graduate Coordinator
Department of Geography and Earth Sciences
University of North Carolina Charlotte

McEniry 308  |  +1.704.687.5998
AndyBobyarchick(at)uncc(dot)edu

From: Barbara Tewksbury <[log in to unmask]>
Reply-To: "Tectonics & structural geology discussion list <[log in to unmask]>" <[log in to unmask]>
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 12:37:44 -0400
To: "Tectonics & structural geology discussion list <[log in to unmask]>" <[log in to unmask]>
Subject: Re: Rock Outcrops Photographs

My husband, who is a photographer, offers a few technical/equipment notes below that might be helpful:

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Easiest is on a step ladder.

If you want to use a pole,

monopod for camera store. Depending on the configuration of the camera connection point on the monopod, a ball head may be needed to allow the camera angle to be adjusted so that it is viewing straight down. Be sure that the monopod is sturdy enough to support the camera weight when extended and held in this fashion. These are really designed to be used to support lenses and held vertically between the lens and ground. However, lots of people do this type of overhead shot all the time but with a high quality ($$$) monopod.

Next trick is triggering the camera while it is in the air. Three methods are commonly used. Least expensive is to set the self timer on the camera and then position the camera in the air and wait for the shutter to click. Second method is to buy a long remote release cable for the camera. In the past shutter releases were standard and came in all kinds of lengths, not anymore. Releases are camera specific and can be quite expensive. Last method commonly used is using a radio trigger such as a Pocket Wizard. Receiver is mounted on the camera and transmitter is held by person holding the pole or someone who is checking the position of the camera.

Finally if you have an iPad and a BlueSLR bluetooth unit mounted on the camera, you can remotely trip the shutter from the iPad. This is also possible with a USB cable attached to a laptop running camera specific software for triggering the camera remotely. This method also allows the captured image to be immediately downloaded to the laptop and viewed while the camera is still in position.

If you have a zoom lens on the camera that is not fairly "tight" you will find the lens extending when the camera is pointed down if it is not taped first.
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Best,

Barb
[log in to unmask]" type="cite">

 

On Sep 5, 2011, at 5:08 PM, <Andy> <Newson>. wrote:

We are looking at taking photographs of flat "Rock Pavement" using a camera on a pole.
I would appreciate any hints how this would work and or any articles out there that may describe it.

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Simon Virgo [log in to unmask]

Geologie - Endogene Dynamik ¡©
RWTH Aachen
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D-52056 Aachen, Germany
http://www.ged.rwth-aachen.de

Tel: +49-241-80-98438
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Barbara Tewksbury

Barbara Tewksbury

Department of Geosciences

Hamilton College

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Clinton, NY  13323

 

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