Dear List Members,
Can anyone help regarding these Medieval terms regarding clothing and parts
of garments etc.
chlamydes
pelles
scollaturis
scissas
guarnellum
placentinum
paludellum
bindis
ligaturis sericis
bursas
serico
Below is the text in which they appear and a very rough translation/guess
of what they might mean.
[Supra Montem: Approbatio Teritae Regulae fratrum et sororum Tertii Ordinis
a B. Francisco institutae, pro saecularibus in propriis dominibus viventibus,
Tertiariis nuncupatis -- PP. Nicolas IV : Rieti, August 17, 1289 A.D.]
De forma habitus, et qualitate indumentorum. — Cap. III.
Fratres insuper ipsius fraternitatis, de humili panno in retio et
colore, non prorsus albo vel nigro, communiter vestiantur, nisi fuerit ad
tempus in pretio per visitatores de consilio ministri ob causam legitimam
et apertam, cum aliquo despensatum. Chlamydes quoquoe ac pelles, absque
scollaturis, scissas vel integras, affibulatas tamen, vel patulas, ut
congruit honestati, clausasque manicas fratres habeant supradicti. Sororers
etiam chlamydes induantur, et tunica de huiusmodi humili panno factis, vel
saltem cum chlamyde habeant guarnellum, seu paludellum amplus de canabo,
sive lino, absue ull a crispatura consutum. Circa humilitatem vero panni et
pellitones sororum ipsarum, iusta conditionem cuiuslibet earundum, ac loci
consuetundinem poterit dispensari. Bindis et ligaturis sericis non utantur,
pelles dumtaxat agninas, bursas de corio et corrigias, simpliciter absque
serico ullo factas et non alias, tam fratres habeant, quam sorores,
depositis caeteris (iuxta B. Petri Apostolorum Pincipis salubre consilium)
vanis huius saeculi ornamentis.
Chapter III: On the form of the habit, and the quality of [their] clothing.
Let the brothers above all of this fraternity, commmonly be dressed in
cloths humble in price and color, not wholly white nor black, unless it has
been dispensed for a time in some place by means of the visitators on the
counsel of the ministers, on account of a legitimate and manifest reason.
Also let the abovesaid brothers have coats [chlamydes] and leather
cloathing [pelles], with collars [absque scollaturis], vested [scissas] or
whole—nevertheless clasped or open, as befits honesty—and [with] closed
sleeves. Also let the sisters dress in a coat, and a tunic made from humble
cloth of this kind, or at least let them have a dress [guarnellum] with a
coat, or a blouse [placentinum], white or black in color; or a full jacket
[paludellum] made from hemp, or linen, without any sewn ruffles. Concerning
the humbleness of the cloth and the leather of the sisters themselves, one
can be dispensed in accord with the condition of each, and the custom of
the place. Let them not use tights [bindis] nor pleated bindings [ligaturis
sericis], [and] let both the brothers as well as the sisters have nothing
fancier than [dumtaxat] lambskin jackets, leather shoes [bursas] and
shoestrings, made simply without any pleating [serico] and not otherwise,
after having put off the other vain ornaments of this age (in accord with
the sober counsel of Blessed Peter the Prince of the Apostles).
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Hoc praefatum textum dedit Bullarum Diplomatum et Privilegiorum Sanctorum
Romanorum Pontificum, Taurinensis Editio, lucpletior facta collecione
novissima plurium brevium, epistolarum, decretorum actorumque S. Sedis a S.
Leone Magno Usque ad praesens cura et studio R. P. D. Aloysii Tomassetti
Antist. Dom. Pontif. et Collegii adlecti Romae Virorum S. Theologiae et SS.
Canonum peritorum quam SS. D. N. Pius Papa IX, apostolica benedictione
erexit, auspicante Emo. Ac Revmo. Dno, S.R.E. Cardinalis Francisco Gaude,
Tomus IV (Mainard. edit. Tom. III, Pars II) A Gregorio X (an. MCCLXXI) ad
Martinum V (an. MCCCCXXXI). Augustae Taurinorum, Seb. Franco, H. Fory et H.
Dalmazzo Editoribus, MDCCCLIX, pp. 90-95.
