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DESIGN-HISTORY  November 2007

DESIGN-HISTORY November 2007

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Subject:

Design History Society Electronic Digest: 21 November 2007

From:

DHS Communications Officer <[log in to unmask]>

Reply-To:

Design History Society <[log in to unmask]>

Date:

Wed, 21 Nov 2007 13:29:32 +0000

Content-Type:

text/plain

Parts/Attachments:

Parts/Attachments

text/plain (256 lines)

1. Textile Conservation Centre Closure
2. Pasold 2008 Conference (Conference Announcement)
3. Appropriating Space (Call for Papers)
4. The Shell Guides: Surrealism, Modernism, Tourism (Exhibition Announcement)

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
"A Serious Assault on Excellence

The conservation community around the world has reacted with shock and anger
to the news that the Textile Conservation Centre at Southampton University
is to close in 2009. Despite its enviable track record, Southampton
University has announced the closure of the centre in 2009 for financial
reasons. The Winchester School of Art, of which the Textile Conservation
Centre is a part, is in deficit and the policy of the University requires
every School to be self-funding and to make a significant contribution to
the central running costs of the University. 

When the Centre moved to Southampton University in 1998 it brought £1.7m of
externally-raised funding with it. In 2002 the Centre secured the then
largest-ever grant awarded by the Arts and Humanities Research Council;
£0.95m to establish a research centre for Textile Conservation and Textile
Studies. The Centre enjoys an excellent international reputation, attracting
many students from outside the UK and sending 97% of its graduates into
conservation employment. 

Icon has been supporting the efforts of the Textile Conservation Centre both
to find a solution within Southampton University and to try and identify a
potential new home. Since it is now clear that no possibility remains of the
Centre staying as part of Southampton University, Icon will continue to
support the work of the Centre’s staff in seeking an alternative home before
2009.   

Icon Chair Simon Cane ACR commented ‘Losing the Textile Conservation Centre
will mean a gaping hole in the provision of specialist conservation training
in the UK and internationally, since so few specialist centres exist. The
need for textile conservation is clear – at the moment the Victoria and
Albert Museum is running a high-profile exhibition called ‘The Golden Age of
Couture, Paris and London 1947-1957.’ Princess Diana’s gowns have just gone
on display at Kensington Palace. The public want access to these fragile and
perishable collections and unless they are stored, cared for and conserved
properly, there will be nothing to see. If there are no skilled and trained
conservators to do the work, public access will suffer.’ 

Icon Chief Executive Alastair McCapra added ‘The Textile Conservation
Centre, like most of our graduate conservation programmes, has a high
proportion of international students. It not only serves our home needs, it
trains conservators who return to their home countries and help raise
standards there. It not only contributes to our invisible exports, it plays
an important role in our cultural diplomacy, which the government says is a
high priority. Whatever the internal issues in Southampton University, the
closure of the Centre will seriously hinder our ability to preserve our own
heritage and will be a major own-goal for the UK on the international stage.’"

Taken from the Institute of Conservation -
http://www.icon.org.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&amp;id=632&Itemid=15

To sign the petition, follow this link:
http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/TCCClosure/

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

From: "Kaori O'Connor" <[log in to unmask]>
Date: 16 November 2007 07:01:44 GMT
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Fwd: Pasold 2008 Conference Annoucement

The Pasold Research Fund, which owes its existence to the success of the
Ladybird brand of children’s wear under the direction of Eric Pasold OBE,
opens a new field of textile research in the:

2008 PASOLD CONFERENCE
CLOTHING CHILDHOOD, FASHIONING SOCIETY: CHILDREN’S CLOTHING IN BRITAIN IN
THE 20TH CENTURY

Until now, studies of contemporary clothing and textiles have focused on
adults and ‘youth’, while studies of children’s wear have concentrated on
the Victorian and earlier eras. This is the first conference to examine the
twentieth century – a period of unprecedented social, economic and
technological change – through the material culture of childhood. What do
children’s clothes and textiles, the fortunes of the industry and companies
that produced them, and the childhoods they fashioned, say about society in
our time?

Thursday - Friday 17-18 January 2008 , The Foundling Museum, 40 Brunswick
Square, London, WC1N 1AZ, 

Keynote Speaker: 
Professor Daniel Thomas Cook (Rutgers-Camden University, USA) · Fashion for
Whom? Display, Ambiguity and the Performing Child.
Dr. Clare Rose (University of Brighton) · Democratic Design and Edwardian
Children’s Clothing 
Dr. Katrina Honeyman (University of Leeds) · Suits for the Boys: The Leeds
Multiple Tailors and the Making of Boy’s Wear 1900-1940 
Dr. Mary Clare Martin (University of Greenwich) · Class, Childhood and
Clothing: Puritanism, Pleasure and Home Production in Professional Families,
1900-1975
Noreen Marshall (V&A Museum of Childhood) · Bargains for the Kiddies:
Children’s Clothing from Selfridges Bargain Basement, 1925-1935
Professor Stanley Chapman (University of Nottingham) · Pasolds Limited,
1930-1970: The Strategies of the Leading British Manufacturer of Children’s
Wear 
Dr. Kaori O’Connor (University College London) · Ladybird and the ‘Golden
Age’ of British Childhood 
Dr. Bramwell Rudd (Formerly with Courtaulds Textiles Plc) · Manufacturing
and Distributing Children’s Wear in a Changing Retail Scene, 1970-2000 
Dr. Hilary Young (University of Manchester) Clothes and the Modern Boy and
Girl: Fashion Pages in Girl and the Boy’s Own Paper in the 1950s and the 1960s 
Alison Carter (Hampshire County Council Museums and Archives · From the
Liberty Bodice to the 28AA Bra: Revealing Stories in the Girls’ ‘Underwear
Department’, 1908-2000 
Anna Konig (London College of Fashion) Homemade Children’s Clothing since
1945: From Items of Necessity to Objects of Desire 
Pennie Alfrey (University of Loughborough) Little Devils Wear Denim:
Fabricating Childhood. 
Hilary
Davidson (Museum of London) The Children’s Clothing Collections at the
Museum of London

Professor Alison J. Clarke (University of Applied Arts, Vienna) Brand
Values: Clothing the Second-Hand Designer Child in the late 20th Century 
Professor Sandy Black (Prof of Fashion & Textiles Design & Technology,
London College of Fashion) Home Knitting for Children: Fashioned with Love 
Ann Wise (Warner Textile Archive) Knitting for Janet and John: 1920- 1960 
Researching Children’s Clothing & New Directions
The EMAP Archive at the London College of Fashion
The Textile Museum, Cholet France and their Children’s Clothing Project.

Conference fee £25 (£15 student/unwaged), to include lunch both days, drinks
and buffet reception, Thursday night. Cheques payable to The Pasold Research
Fund. Please send with booking form to: 
Professor Pat Hudson · HISAR · Cardiff University · Humanities Building ·
Colum Rd.
· Cardiff CF10 3EU ·UK , PASOLD Contact E-mail: [log in to unmask]
Conference Contact · E-mail: [log in to unmask] .
In association with the Department of Anthropology, University College, London.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

From: "Appropriating Space" <[log in to unmask]>
Date: 19 November 2007 21:46:35 GMT
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Call for Papers: Appropriating Space

CALL for PAPERS

*Appropriating Space*
An Interdisciplinary Colloquium for Postgraduate Students
*22-23 February 2008*
Goldsmiths, University of London

From gaming halls to ghost towns, wailing walls to waterholes, social spaces
are shaped by the people who inhabit them.  *Appropriating Space* is a
student-led colloquium for postgraduates that will explore the many ways in
which social and spatial identity are intertwined.

This call for papers invites students to examine the construction of space
from many perspectives, identifying the various ways in which diverse groups
shape and inscribe social space. The idea of social space can include (but
is not limited to): professional environments, collectivities and communes,
national and local territories, political imperatives, alternative spaces,
performance spaces and theatres, marketplaces, pubs, art galleries and
museums, annexed spaces, sacred or spiritual spaces or domestic contexts;
the problematics of space and the mechanisms of globalisation.

Organised by the Sociology of Theatre and Performance Research Group at
Goldsmiths (led by Professor Maria Shevtsova), this event will provide an
opportunity for postgraduates in all fields across the UK to engage with
their peers across disciplines in a challenging and convivial environment.
In addition to showcasing their own research through the presentation of
conference papers, students will be able to participate in several
roundtable discussions and panel sessions over the course of the colloquium.
This is a unique opportunity for postgraduates across the country to meet,
network and exchange ideas in a truly interdisciplinary context.

We welcome submissions from postgraduate research students. If you would
like to participate, please submit your name, university, conference paper
title or title of practical workshop and 250-word abstract to appropriating. 

[log in to unmask] *Deadline for applications is 31 December 2007.*

Please don't hesitate to contact us with any queries you may have regarding
the colloquium.

We look forward to hearing from you!

Sincerely,

Rachel Shapiro
Anna Porubcansky
PhD Students in the Department of Drama and Theatre Arts
Sociology of Theatre and Performance Research Group
Goldsmiths University of London

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From:   [log in to unmask]
Subject: The Shell Guides Exhibition
Date: 19 November 2007 10:41:24 GMT

The Shell Guides: Surrealism, Modernism, Tourism
at the Museum of Domestic Design & Architecture (MoDA)
4th March  - 2nd November 2008.

This exhibition explores the creative forces that created the Shell County
Guides.  It considers their widespread cultural influence on our shared
understanding of Britain and British-ness.

From the 1930s to the 1980s, innovative writers, artists, designers and
academics combined their efforts to produce that most ordinary of books, a
guide. In the 1930s, the editor of the guides, John Betjeman, gathered
together an odd mixture of young artists and authors like Paul and John
Nash, Robert Byron and John Piper.  These artists represented some of the
best of British creative talent of the mid twentieth century. 

The first of these, The Shell Guide to Cornwall, was published in 1934,
followed in rapid succession by guides to Devon, Dorset, Derbyshire, Oban
and The Western Isles. Publication of The Shell Guide ceased in the 1980s as
Britain went abroad, but they remain the most Modern and comprehensive guide
to Britain, a powerful but understated synthesis of good writing, good
imagery and good design. 

This exhibition draws on MoDA’s J M Richard’s collection, which includes
many of the Shell Guides plus, examples of other works by key contributors.

Shaping an understanding of Britain’s landscape
The Shell Guides were aimed at a new breed of car-driving  metropolitan
tourists.  They were for those who sought guides that were neither too
serious nor to shallow and who took pleasure in the ordinary and peculiar
culture of small town Britain.  In the three decades after the Second World
War the Shell Guides provided a surreptitiously subversive synthesis of the
British countryside.

They revelled in the unconventional, the surreal and the mystical which -
through the seemingly “public-library ordinariness” of the guides - became
ingrained in the British middle class imagination.   The Shell Guide Britain
is the Britain of ancient landscapes and barely-covered paganism that
informed our post war view of ourselves from Stig of the Dump to The Wicker
Man via Quatermass. 

A creative force in twentieth century art and design 
The guides were illustrated using the most modern and often surrealist
photographs, small intimate sketches by the authors and reproductions of
English romantic and popular prints. This incongruous mix of old and new was
combined with a graphic layout that blended the contemporary style of the
Architectural Review with arcane nineteenth century typefaces.  By the end
of the 1930s the Shell Guides were among the most avant-garde publications
in Europe - though devoted to a subject that was almost the cultural opposite.  

Today as new generations re-discover Britain there are new guides in print
and on the web. The best of them owe a clear debt to the Shell Guides’
understanding of non-metropolitan Britain.

Museum of Domestic Design & Architecture 
Middlesex University, Cat Hill, Barnet, Herts, EN4 8HT
tel: +44 (0)20 8411 5244, fax: +44 (0)20 8411 6639
www.moda.mdx.ac.uk

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