Deal all,
Below you will find two letters written by Emilie
Smith, an Anglican priest and activist who went to
Oaxaca last week. I am sending you these letters
because I think they provide a compelling and
unconventional view of a social struggle that is
overflowing with hope, pain, and politics. Emilie
lives in Vancouver and has been involved in solidarity
work in Latin America for many years. These letters
were originally written to people in the Vancouver
solidarity community and are shared here with Emilie's
permission. Only names have been changed.
NB:
APPO: Popular Assembly of the People of Oaxaca
CIPO: Popular Indigenous Council of Oaxaca, Ricardo
Flores Magón
If you want to learn more, there has been a lot
written about Oaxaca in the alternative and not so
alternative press recently. Democracy Now has
produced some excellent pieces over the last few
weeks, and for those who read Spanish, the Jornada
newspaper in Mexico has daily coverage.
Kevin Gould
University of British Columbia
Department of Geography
*****************************************************
Report from Oaxaca #2
Dear Friends,
Mission accomplished! My friend Maria fell asleep in
the middle of
a
meeting my first night here, and we had to practically
carry her to
bed.
That was her first good sleep in many, many, many
weeks. Esperanza too says
that
she feels so relaxed that I'm here. Juan even came
home from the
barricades and had a shower! Doña Emilia's daughter
got married today,
and
she couldn't change the date or anything, so I've just
come back from a
very
interesting wedding feast featuring some very good
mole, and dances
which
involved smashing crockery, and two men leaping around
with live
turkeys
stabbing at people while candy and oranges and sugar
cane were thrown
into
the air. Very fun and surreal in the middle of all
this, so what is
'this', anyway . . .
Escaped Mexico City as soon as I could. There were
two army roadblocks
before our bus even got to Oaxaca city. Trained in
Guatemala to eat my
heart out at army road blocks, I was surprised when we
sailed through.
Three Zapotec boys from the Sierra Juarez picked me up
at the bus
station in
the CIPO truck and we bumped through town, past army
vehicles and
police
anti-riot squads, past enormous hulks of burned out
buses and cars, and
destroyed barricades. The CIPO house is only blocks
away from where
Brad
Will, the U.S. journalist was shot and killed by
paramilitaries. Dario
and
Juan were with him when he died, and I spent about an
hour on the
phone my
first night with a reporter from the Village Voice
translating between
her
and Dario. It is truly horrible to hear first hand
what happened, and
to
see how exhuasted people are. I'm trying not to get
too tired and worn
out,
so that I can help others out. So far that's not
working too well, as
I'm
still trying to get used to everything. Morning
Prayer helps, in the
sun,
out behind the house in a little chair with chickens
running around.
The next day was the first day of the Founding
Congress of APPO, the
Popular Assembly of the Oaxacan people. APPO formed
after the first
government repression against the teachers on June
14th, but have had
provisional leadership up until now. Nov. 10, 11, 12
are the days for
this
rather remarkable gathering. Imagine feeding 1,500
people, with not
much
fuss. (Í'm not going to say a word about the bathroom
situation).
THere
are huge lineups all morning to register. Day one a
truck pulls up
with
bags full of boiled chayote (vegetable) and totopos
(giant dried
tortillas).
Yum, yum (really!) But it was Friday, so I was
fasting. The inner
working of the APPO congress is not my job to
describe. It is
incredibly
complex, and in many ways dominated by traditional
leftist forces,
leaving
my friends who are struggling for indigenous autonomy,
not political
party
power, somewhat on the margin. As usual they are like
leaven in the
loaf
and serve to inspire and challenge other ways of
thinking. I was asked
to
give a greeting from Canada, and to talk about the
delegation that we
are
organizing under a new group organizing in Vancouver,
GATO, Oaxaca
Support
Working Group. My message was well received, as the
Oaxacans are
relieved
to hear that others outside their state are listening.
Extremely long meetings are not my forte, so joy of
joys, I joined a
delegation of the outgoing provisional council to
greet a caravan of
indigenous leaders from Chiapas that was coming up for
the weekend. I
can't
begin to describe this experience, but I'll try. For
two days 250
Tzotzil
women and men travel, standing up in the back of
pickup trucks the
whole
way. They are fasting the whole while, and praying
for peace in
Oaxaca. We
go to Mass at the Soledad church in Oaxaca, and the
woman reading the
message from the communities totally outdoes the
Bishop in eloquence
and
power. I ask the Bishop for his blessing, and I think
he was startled,
but
then okay with that. Outside the church the Tzotzil's
performed a
Mayan
ritual, and the Bishop swayed and danced (rather
awkwardly). Back to
the
CIPO house for more meetings, emails, break my fast at
around 1am with
black
beans and black sweet coffee and then crashing on my
petate (straw mat)
until the next day.
that would be today, although that seems so very long
ago that it's
hard to
believe. Today more boring meetings, but I sat below
Maria and she
braided
my hair and I coloured a rainbow dragon in my
notebook. We want to get
a
black dog for CIPOhouse and call it El Dragon. So
again at midday the
Chiapanecos, who live in indigenous autonomous
communities, came to the
APPO
Congress, amazingly dropped off two pickup trucks of
food to feed
people
with during the meeting, at the remaining barricades,
etc. And then
they,
with me in tow again, headed off on a two hour
procession through the
streets of Oaxaca. They were still fasting, and it
was hot and we
walked,
women on one side, men on the other, for blocks and
blocks with
Oaxacans
clapping, and many crying to see such a sign of love.
All of the city
is
occupied, but especially the central square, the
Zocalo. There is no
civilian movement allowed there, even the cathedral's
shut down. So we
arrive at the permanent police line. The elders speak
at length with
the
police and suddenly the lines are opening up, and we
are squeezing
through
two nasty looking tanks and then along the deserted
street, lined with
very,
very scary police in full riot gear, down to these
wierd pads covering
their
legs and feet, all with plexiglass sheilds and faces
of stone. We go
all
the way to the steps of the cathedral where we engage
in songs and
prayers,
much kneeling on stone (I'm glad I'm an
Anglo-Catholic). This goes on
for
at least an hour, and much to my deep honour, at the
end the Mayan
elder
asked me if I would come and say a closing prayer. So
on the steps of
the
cathedral steps this mild-mannered Anglican priest
basically stole from
her
All Saints Day Sermon, and prayed to our God, the God
of Life who
created
heaven and earth, prayed for those who build God's
Kingdom on earth,
for the
martyrs who have died for the love of God, and then
reminded the grey
police
who ringed the ring of beautiful Mayans that they are
sons of this same
God,
and owe Him primary allegience. We then processed
out of this circle
of
death, back on to the streets. I decided I'd had
enough, and slipped
out,
and home, to write and rest, sad that I didn't know
how to get to the
aforementioned wedding. Then Tito's son stopped by on
his way to that
wedding so I got to go after all. And that was just
today.
Tomorrow is the final day for the APPO congress, and
the chiapanecos
are
going home, so I won't be able to escape with them.
As nothing really
doesn't begin until around 12 anyway, I'll try to find
an early mass
somewhere. Things have been rather quiet. (Only one
shooting at a
barricade, strange what goes for quiet.) But this
week the Federal
government has given the governor an ultimatum:
govern or else. The
teacher's, exhausted, seem to be planning to return to
school, but
really
it's anyone's guess. THere are still scattered
barricades up, and the
University is still in APPO hands, and the radio.
We'll see. In the
meantime, I'm planning to meet with lots and lots of
human rights and
church
and everything else groups. The Anglican priest in
town seems to have
returned to the states, but during the Congress, a
really nice guy from
a
small town came up and told me he was an Anglican, and
he gave me his
priest's name and said that they are doing lots of
work. Oh goody,
goody!
The CIPO pickup truck just beeped outside the
compound, everyone's home
(or
at the barricade) safe for the night. We're off to
the outside kitchen
for
a dinner (it's around 11pm) of green beans and eggs
and black beans and
black sweet coffee, and then one last planning meeting
for tomorrow,
and
then my lovely, lovely petate. Bye all, I'll keep you
all posted.
Thanks
again for your prayers and support. I don't mind
finding notes from my
beloved in my in box, sometimes I'm sad and a little
lonely, and I wish
I
could eat some Vancouver food.
love emilie
p.s. thought for the night: always leave your
toothbrush in its
little
baggy. Two GIANT dragon-sized cockroaches are perched
on the
toothbrushes
in the bathroom and sitting there pretending to be
invisible -- brown
on
pink. It's not working, especially with those little
feelers wiggling.
*******************************************************
Oaxaca Report #1
Dear Friends,
I sawed the tip of my right index finger off in my
friend Tom's
kitchen
last night, and thus turned the Pico de Gallo into a
ceviche de dedo de
Emilie, and now it's hard to type. But that is as
about as exciting as
it
gets so far. I arrived the night before last and
yesterday was very,
very
busy. I met with people from Serapaz (Don Samuel's
working group), the
Political Advisor from the Canadian Embassy, various
human rights
groups,
with the teacher's union here in the captal city, also
I went to the
APPO
occupation in front of the Senate building where I met
with lots of
Oaxacan
teachers and their supporters, and with a number of
indigenous groups
etc.
The stickers are very popular, Jefe! Today I'm
continuing to meet with
human rights groups and with the guys at La Jornada,
who's been
publishing
so much of our stuff lately. Basically it seems to be
another calm
before
the storm moment. Highways were blocked between
Oaxaca and Mexico
City.
Today there is a massive visiting of embassies,
tomorrow a big
demonstration
and Saturday a caravan of up to 80 buses and many more
cars to Oaxaca,
from
all over the country. I'll keep you all informed.
Much love, and
thanks
for your love and prayers.
Emilie
____________________________________________________________________________________
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