I believe that by the end of the century black had become a popular
color for court clothing, following Spanish fashion, of whom Philip
II was supposedly an exemplar. James Laver's _Costume and Fashion: A
Concise History_ is a starting point, and it refers the reader to
C.W. Cunnington's _Handbook of English Costume in the Sixteenth
Century_.
joel davis
>
>
>Where clothing and fashion are concerned, cultural codes are of
>course to be considered, but I
>think the materials and techniques involved in dyeing must have
>played some role. Perhaps it
>was the case that cloth dyed black held its color more uniformly and
>for a longer time than
>something brighter -- and of course stains wouldn't show so readily.
>It also occurs to me that
>black might 'set off' jewels and other light-catching ornaments more
>effectively than a gaudy
>fabric, and provide a dramatic contrast to pale flesh. Consider Una
>in this light.
>
>Cheers, Jon Quitslund
>> Dear listmembers,
>>
>> I am interested in the different ways in which blackness was perceived in
>> the 16thC.
>>
>> I have noted the following uses:
>>
>> 1. To denote the macabre / supernatural. Death, Hell, Fiends, etc. (as in
>> the Fairie Queene).
>> 2. To denote a bleaching agent used in the preparation of leather (OED)
>> 3. To denote the presence of divine light (as a Metaphysical conceit, which
>> draws on a Byzantine spiritual convention e.g. Herbert's Sonnet of Black
>> Beauty)
>> 4. To denote an inversion of values (in Barnfield's Affectionate Shepheard
>> and perhaps Jonson's Masque of Blackness, though the approach is different
>> in
>> each of these)
>>
>> Thoughts on the above uses and any comments you may have would be very
>> welcome.
>> My context is the examination of possible subtexts in the use of black in
>> fashion and embroidery during the period.
>> Any suggestions of other possible avenues of exploration would be gratefully
>> received.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for your help.
>>
>> Leon Conrad
>> London, UK
--
Joel B. Davis Stetson University
Assistant Professor 421 N Woodland Blvd Unit 8300
English Department DeLand, FL 32723
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