Four generations of London couture, 1890 - 2002: designers, clients and
clothes
A study day at the V&A
Saturday 18 October 2002, 10.30 - 17.00
Lecture Theatre
This study day will examine the unique identity of London's haute couture
industry, the special creativity of its designers and the sartorial
requirements of their royal and private clientele.
Defined literally, 'couture' means sewing or needlework. Implicit in the
term is a supreme quality of innovative design and workmanship. Despite the
rise of ready-to-wear and recurring declarations within the fashion press
that couture is dead, it remains a vibrant and important part of the global
fashion industry. Couture demands the highest level of technical expertise
and specialist craft skills and consumes the most luxurious, costly fabrics
and accessories. It is the vision of the couturiers that pushes fashion's
boundaries towards a new modernity.
The roots of haute couture can be traced back to at least the 18th century
when all court clothing was made-to-measure by a dressmaker or tailor for a
particular client. The French couture industry was launched by the
Englishman Charles Worth in the 1860s and London kept pace by establishing
its own small but significant industry. Designs by Redfern and Lucile were
internationally renowned in their day, as were those of second generation
London couturiers such as Norman Hartnell, and post-War couturiers including
John Cavanagh. Since the 1980s a new generation of couturiers, notably
Catherine Walker, has kept English couture in the international fashion
spotlight and in the dawn
of the 21st century, London couture is on the brink of a renaissance as
long-established houses bring in new design talent.
The speakers for this event are leaders in their field, each with an
intimate knowledge of English couture as designers, museum curators and
academics. Recent fashion exhibitions and scholarly debate has focused upon
cutting-edge designer ready-to-wear fashion and street style. By analysing
the history of London's couture industry within its socio-economic and
cultural contexts, the study day will redress this balance.
The day has been organised to coincide with the display of some 50 garments
by Catherine Walker within the V&A's Dress Collection (Gallery 40). The
schedule allows time to visit the display and will conclude with a
discussion between the audience and a panel of speakers.
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